The Cruising Group went to Scotland, and it was fabulous!
15 yachts signed up in January, various people had to withdraw in the interim for personal or boat reasons, so there were 9 boats leaving Howth on the June Bank Holiday weekend. Some left at 4am before Low Water to ensure we had enough depth to get out, some others (with bigger engines) left after Low Water but soon caught up (and passed us). There wasn't enough of an Easterly breeze to make it uncomfortable and there was some nice sailing up past Lambay until the wind started to back towards the North. Eventually, there was no option but to start the engine and motor for Ardglass, which Indulgence reached after a 12 hour trip.
The next day, no wind - the group set off for Bangor under engine. Sadly, Touch Wood stayed behind, having developed an engine problem that is only now being fixed. Arriving later than expected in Bangor, the sunburnt sailors set off for the Royal Ulster Yacht Club for the first muster dinner. This was preceded by a tour of the venerable clubhouse, including a room full of America's Cup history, fragments from Nelson's ship and other memorabilia. A lovely dinner in the club's dining room followed as we watched the sun start to sink across Belfast Lough.....It was here that Blues Xtra reluctantly had to leave the cruise to return to Dublin.
Because of our little engine, Indulgence decided to head off that night on the North-going tide. In good visibility and fading light, we set off across the Lough, dodging ferries, and made good progress towards the Mull of Kintyre. As dawn broke the next morning, the wind got up and a steep chop developed, halving our speed towards Campbeltown. Eventually, we cleared Sanda Island and its shoals and could free off for the loch, arriving at 9am on a misty morning to the entrance to Campbeltown at Davar Island and a warm welcome from Calum, the Harbourmaster. Who needs sleep? We ambled up town and found Scottish breakfasts in a little cafe. Most of the rest of the fleet arrived during the day, although Arcturus branched out to do a little exploring before the muster in East Loch Tarbert.
The next day there was a tour of the Springbank distillery in the town, followed by a "wee dram". Many of the distilleries have closed and the main business in Campbeltown is now the manufacture of blades for the offshore wind turbines, That night, we had an informal dinner in Number 42, recommended for its seafood and steaks.....and some had a nightcap in a nearby hotel offering hundreds of whiskies to thirsty sailors.
Indulgence changed crew in Campbeltown, as Denise and Robbie left and Regina joined. Another motor into headwinds took us up the loch to East Loch Tarbert, a welcoming harbour famous for hosting the Scottish Series for racers. We were here for a few nights, as it is an ideal base from which to explore the lochs and islands. Arcturus arrived from their adventuring, as did Oriel which had headed off from Campbeltown to go anti-clockwise round the Isle of Bute, and Kookaburra, who was revisiting old haunts.Indulgence managed a couple of miles across the loch to Portavadie - a deepwater marina with all mod cons (including sauna) but not much soul.
When the fleet had regathered in East Loch Tarbert, we had our second muster dinner, preceded by a pontoon party. It was an opportunity for crews to share stories and suggestions of good places to visit and we set off in high spirits for The Gather restaurant, just outside the town. Here, we had another lovely meal and, having the place to ourselves, Regina got the sea shanty competition going.....which developed into a general sing song, including all 16 verses of American Pie...
After that, reality started to set in for some boats. Oriel left early to catch the tide back towards Bangor, while the rest set off for Rothesay, on the east side of the Isle of Bute. The route from Tarbert took us up and around the top of the Isle, passing some lovely anchorages along the way which would definitely be worth returning to next time. Port Bannatyne, just out of Rothesay town was welcoming - shame that nothing was open on Sunday or Monday nights there! Another crew change here, as Regina departed and Michael joined us. Arcturus and mare departed towards home. And the plan changed too - skip the stopover in Largs and go back past the Burnt Isles to Campbeltown on the start of our own journey south.
Speedy, Kookaburra and Indulgence were the last survivors in Campbeltown, where the plan changed a final time. Given the weather, it would be a shame not to go home via Rathlin Island. Speedy was under time pressure and headed for Bangor but Kookaburra and Indulgence set off early along the Mull of Kintyre for Rathlin. With tide, we made good time, saw a couple of bottlenose dolphins, and tied up in blazing sunshine some 6 hours after we left Campbeltown. Having booked our lobsters for dinner, there was time to sit and watch the Eider ducks teach their young to dive in the harbour. The next day we visited the "upside-down" lighthouse on the west side of the island, where there is also a huge seabird colony, including puffins.
Leaving Rathlin to pick up the tide down the Antrim coast we, yet again, had the wind on the nose. But the sun shone and the porpoises swam by and we made good time - so good that it was suggested that we skip Bangor and go direct to Ardglass. We arrived in Arglass on a sunny early morning, had a quick nap and shower and left again to pick up the south-going tide. Shortly after, the rain (rain??) started and we eventually arrived back in Howth in a downpour. Kookaburra came home the next afternoon and so the Scottish cruise came to a happy and successful end.
Brian Cronly does an amazing job in chronicling the event in his short movie - This really captures the essence of the trip.
Watch the Video below:
