Willie Kearney, Kevin and Jacinta Monks (all from HYC) and Jack and Joanne O’Connell from Cork, completed a 12 day charter of the Ionian Islands from Corfu Island
Date: Charter from Wednesday 10th to Saturday 20rd May 2023
Charter Location: Gouvia Marina, Corfu. Greece
Vessel chartered: Beneteau Oceanis 393 with 3 large cabins Approx. 150 miles sailing in total
Report by Willie Kearney
Having completed a charter of the beautiful Ionian islands in a 33 ft yacht in previous years, I promised myself that I would hire a larger, roomier and more modern yacht next time.
Facts: The cost of the 12 day charter of the 40 foot yacht was € 2,400. We booked early. “What a bargain (€480 each)” We visited many islands on route and at our leisure and we were totally flexible in relation to our itinerary. Experience had shown us previously that a minimum of a 10 day charter was required to achieve a satisfactory stress free voyage to the Ionian Islands. Having chartered for 7seven days in the past, we found that we had been obliged to turn back north much earlier, rather reluctantly. A seven day charter actually only achieves six days of sailing. Why? Well, when you arrive on a Saturday afternoon, you have to provision and check the yacht fully. You have to return the yacht to its home marina on the following Friday afternoon fully refuelled. You have to vacate the yacht on the last Saturday morning, usually by 9 am.
Tuesday: Day 1. Prepare the Yacht and Crew. We arrived on a midday Ryanair flight and met Jack and Joanne with the supermarket trolley full of our list of food and essentials for the voyage. A beer each for the hoisting of the Irish flag on our masthead. I then went through the charter formalities and paid our deposit of €1,700. The agreed voyage target was to stop at Paxos Island and then on to Lefkada. We sailed through the Lefkada canal to the enclosed Ionian sea and then sailed down to Catalonia Island. We had a full complement of charts and a basic chart plotter.
Responsibilities on board for voyage: Duties were agreed as follows; Kevin was nominated as navigator and daily weather forecaster. Jack was assigned as Anchor Person and dingy/bow minder. Jacinta agreed to be Voyage photographer and nightly restaurant seeker. Joanne was assigned to look after the kitty and victuals on board. Skipper was to be back up navigator, water/gas monitor/ purchaser of fresh bread for the yacht every morning and general dogsbody.
Wednesday Day 2. Target: Voyage to Gaios on Paxos Island
We left at 10.20 am after sorting out an electrical problem and other lack of equipment on board with the Charter Company. It’s always the same with charter companies. There are always items missing or some key items not working properly. We sailed southerly in Light winds past Corfu town and the famous Kanoni Church on mouse island south of the town.
The in-mast reefing was excellent on the yacht and we all became familiar with operating the yacht safely. We arrived at 16.30 pm. in Gaios town on the island of Paxos. A magnificent cliff surrounds the town of Gaios. The town of Gaios is surrounded by a half circle of cliffs with the half centre filled with a beautiful town centre facing a Monastery and a Military Fort on a separate small island. Essentially a semi-circular harbour with a north and south entrance. What a magical place! We berthed the yacht in the town centre facing the Church. The town houses and tavernas were multi coloured and the harbour a cocktail of yachting chaos.
A Flotilla Captain shouted orders across at our yacht telling us to moor elsewhere. We ignored him, to his disgust. The skipper knew the town wall was public and also knew that the flotilla skipper had no rights to restrict our mooring location. After mooring up with a show of bravado, we made our way to the bathing beach at the southern end of the harbour. We dined in a fabulous restaurant at the top of the town and enjoyed a fabulously home cooked meal.
Thursday Day 3: Target: Lefkada Marina.
We got up early at 7 am to prepare for the 33 mile sail south to Lefkada Canal. Gas had run out and we had to find a supplier as the spare tank we found was also light. We left Gaios at 9 am and had a wonderful sail south past the island and beautiful beaches of Antipaxos. There was a light chop on the sea. The main and gib sails were fully up and we were sailing comfortably at 7 knots. The bridge at Lefkada only opens on the hour for visiting yachts. We were the last yacht to make it through the bridge at 4.15 PM but the lock keepers kept it open for us, so we raced through and thanked them.
The bridge at the Lefkada Marina is essentially a rotating ferry boat . This design enabled the Island of Lefkada to keep its Island status for grant purposes etc.
On entering Lefkada Marina you are met by a marinière in a speedboat, who will escort you to your lazy line berth and set you up for electricity/key fobs for showers. We were met and given a hearty welcome by my friend , Brendan Mangan and his crew. We reversed into a tight berth by our now honed and experienced crew. We had to look the biz reversing in front of Brendan’s rowdy crew who had a close eye on us. Showers for all. Brendan’s crew had booked a restaurant for us all that night. I booked an electrician on my mobile with the yacht charterer for following morning at 10.30 AM.to look at our electrical problems. The Marina was located three hundred yards from the centre of the beautiful town of Lefkas. The town seemed to have more British expats living there than locals. A greek Gibraltar. We dined at Nautilus Restaurant in the town centre.
Friday Day 4: Target: Sivota town south of Lefkada Island.
The electrician duly arrived and located the problem within 10 minutes by isolating the water heater switch. We left immediately and entered the fantastic Lefkada canal and on towards the island of Skorpios. This island was previously owned by Aristotle Onassis and held the famous Blue beach house where Jacqueline Kennedy was photographed topless by a paparazzi diver. A large day tripper boat from Nidri arrived and drove right up on the beach. It dropped a ladder from the bow for the visiting tourists from Nidri town.
We sailed on around the island of Meganisi and picked up a steady 15 knots of wind. We anchored at a beautiful beach and surrounding bay of the island. We swam ashore and had a beautiful midday meal later on board. Refreshed, we had a pleasant evening sail at 5 knots past the busy town of Nidri and Tranquil Bay. We arrived in the beautiful Sivota Bay at 6 PM. We berthed successfully first go, against the tavern wall. We met The Rowdy Bunch from Cork again and had another wonderful home cooked Greek meal. We met a yacht in Sivota that night from Howth Yacht club. Jacinta, Kevin and I disappeared for a nightcap with the HYC crew in a taverna and celebrated our reunion.
Saturday Day 5: Target: Fiscardo harbour at pinnacle of Island of Cephalonia
The following morning, we left Sivota at 10.45 am and picked up 15 knots of wind in the open sea between Lefkada and Cephalonia and the Italian sea. We arrived at 1.45pm in the colourful Fiscardo Bay on the Island of Cephalonia. A magical town surrounded by granite constructed houses and tavernas. A swim on the beach and a stroll through the designer label stores.
Sunday Day 6: Target Meganisi Island and return to north.
We had planned to stay another night in Fiscardo. However, ever vigilant, weather events overtook us. We subsequently had to “get out of dodge quickly”.
I was up at 6am having seen the weather forecast with Kevin. Brendan had also seen the weather forecast and was making ready to depart.
We had chartered the yacht on a Tuesday and so had drawn the short and warped plank
i.e., the last one left. I intended to race up the hill and witness the storm coming. In my haste, I fell off the plank fully clothed. A mighty splash.
Unfortunately, I was seen by some of the crew. I awoke all the crew and advised them to make ready. I was so full of adrenalin that I continued up the hill and witnessed the coming dark clouds and imminent storm as forecast. On my return, smiles all round and request if I needed dry clothes. A great laugh. Lash down the dingy. Up with the anchor and away. We used gib sail only as the wind was now behind us at 20 knots. Passed the famous Homers Greek Odyssey Island of Ithaca on our starboard at 7 knots. Passed Brendan’s 36 foot yacht at full speed and blew our horn in triumph. Phoned Brendan and we took mutual photographs of our magnificent yachts racing along.
We arrived at Vachi harbour town on Meganisi Island at 12.30pm. There were no spaces in the marina, so we moored up against the town wall. There were no facilities and the area was bleak. Brendan’s boat coming behind us found a yacht leaving the private marina and was allowed in. They called us on the mobile and told us that another yacht was leaving. We scarpered together again to take the vacant berth in this glorious white marina with all facilities we needed. Hurray for team work. The advantages of being in a flotilla! On mooring up in the Marina, I was approached by the Flotilla boss who had harassed us in Gaios asking how we had obtained the berth. We assisted with introducing him to the Marina Manager. His Flotilla were unhappy on the public wall. In the office, I booked for a second night.
Monday Day 7: Take lazy day in Vachi on Meganisi Island. Filled with fuel and water and reprovisioned the boat. A lovely relaxing day on the Island.
Jack and Joanne hired a motorcycle on the island. It was great for reprovisioning, as the local supermarket was a distance away from the marina.
Tuesday Day 8: Target: Return to Lefkada Marina
We left early and immediately found a recommended magnificent beach north west of the island.
Used this smiley rock face as a transit point following anchoring. Fabulous swimming location. Jacinta and Joanne swimming above. Sailed back up to Lefkada Marina in afternoon.
Wednesday Day 9: Target: Gaios on Paxos Island
Up at 7am for to have an early breakfast and to queue at Lefkada Marina Office in order to obtain the return of our yacht documentation and make the 9am hourly opening of the Canal Bridge ferry. We made it to the ferry and were accompanied by a large number of yachts and huge catamarans. We proceeded to have a great sail with 16 knots of wind just using the jib sail. We were motor sailing at a fantastic 7 knots when we were suddenly hit by huge black thunder storm. Nerves jangling/Dingy slamming up and down on the deck. Kevin and I hastily rolled up the Genoa. We experienced forked lightning strikes around the yacht. We were blown back towards Lefkada for a good 20 minutes and the wind speed reached 33 knots at peak. The Italian had caught up with us again. No swimming today.! We were headed again for the town of Gaios on the southern end of the island of Paxos.
We entered again into this oasis of a beautiful circular bay with one large quay wall surrounding a central town and relaxed after our first storm experience of the voyage.
Thursday Day 10: Target: Petriki fishing Port south of Corfu Island.
I refuelled the yacht with a passing van carrying fuel, early in the morning while the crew having breakfast ashore. This would save us refuelling in Gouvia Marina at peak charter return time on the Friday afternoon. Previous experience taught me to keep my fuel tank full if at all possible. Fuel stations in Marinas during peak times are dangerous places and the queues are always long. We set sail early and agreed to get the bulk of the return journey over by targeting Petriki fishing harbour on the southern end of Corfu Island. Following a magical sail in the open sea we spotted Petriki on our port side. The setting was magical with seagulls in the skies above the hilly forest cliffs. It was 6 pm and there were too many yachts in the fishing harbour. We berthed up to the outside quay which was listed in our pilot book as suitable. We found our rudder was almost touching bottom and had to move to a deeper point. Sweat dripping after all the anchor work, we sojourned to the adjacent tavern and had a glass two of wine.
We had a great celebration that night. A great crew. An incredible voyage. What a meal. The Chef insisted on showing us the food he had prepared beforehand. It was the best meal we had of the holiday. It was Nirvana.
Friday Day 11: Target: Gouvnia Marina, Corfu Island.
We had a relaxing wonderful late breakfast in the local hotel. Following our 5 hour voyage on the previous day we had loads of time. So, we anchored in Petriki bay, swam and relaxed in the sun for many hours. We reluctantly up-anchored at 2pm and entered our home port of Gouvnia Marina at 4,30 pm. We refuelled the yacht with our spare 20 litre drum on board and the Charter Manager said that as the main tank was full it was sufficient. Inspection by the Manager and his diver was agreed and took place that evening.
Saturday Day 12: Last day
The charter manager arranged a taxi for us at 12pm. No rush packing! Take your time! After a late breakfast we packed and got the early afternoon Ryanair flight home from Corfu Airport
Conclusions
The furling main and gib sails were both in excellent working condition. When the wind exceeded 20 knots, we just furled the mainsail in the mast and used the furling jib for control. It was adequate and we had some fantastic day sails at up to 7 knots. I would recommend taking the extra insurance option relieving the skipper and crew making the security deposit unnecessary. The extra cost of around €400 divided by 5 is worth every penny for the stress it relieves during the final yacht inspections.
---Willie Kearney 29th October 2023
Suggested Items to pack for Sun Charter
Passport
Money /cash
Credit card
Med Card/Med insurance details/Eastern Health board card etc
Phone/camera with charger and convertor/usb and 12volt yacht convertor
Check in Plane documents
Flip flops/sandals
Swimming togs and soft bag for swimming gear
Swimming goggles
Shorts/trousers
Long sleeve shirts/tee shirts
Fleece
Sun hat
Toilet bag
Suncream in 100 mlbottle
Relevant Medicines/some small plasters/headache tablets
Small torch and batteries
Maybe roll up waterproof jacket
Book/ magazine to read/ note book/folder/ sketch book/pen
Relevant charts/ pilot book if available
sunglasses
PLB
Irish Flag
Skippers Certification documents/References /copy of charter booking
